I paddled out to the lineup on a mediocre day and found a leathery old bald guy* surfing alone on a tiny shortboard**.
“How is it?” I asked, nodding at the swell.
“It is,” he replied with a slow smile, “as you see.”
He caught wave after wave after wave that afternoon, while I caught – barely – one.
*The ghost of Christmas future?
**Smaller boards are harder to surf.
Move to get a better view
Making your own waves
Boardroom: Lessons from Surfing (1) – In the Water
Boardroom: Lessons from Surfing (2) – Whose Fool?
Boardroom: Lessons from Surfing (3) – Dings and Scars
Boardroom: Lessons from Surfing (4) – Tao, Timing, Vectors